Global fashion powerhouse Prada has found itself at the center of a growing controversy after a Public Interest Litigation (PIL) was filed in the Bombay High Court, accusing the luxury brand of copying India’s iconic Kolhapuri chappals without proper credit or compensation to local artisans.
The PIL, submitted on July 2 by Ganesh S. Hingmire, an advocate specializing in Intellectual Property Rights, demands that Prada not only issue a public apology but also pay damages to the artisans who have preserved and passed down this traditional craft for generations—especially those in Maharashtra.
‘This Public Interest Litigation seeks directions and appropriate reliefs, including an injunction and damages/compensation for the unauthorised commercialisation of a GI-tagged product,’ the plea states, referring to the Geographical Indication (GI) status granted to Kolhapuri chappals.
Backlash Over Cultural Appropriation
The legal action follows intense criticism of Prada’s latest summer collection, which featured footwear resembling the handcrafted Kolhapuri chappals—long celebrated as a symbol of Maharashtra’s rich cultural heritage. While Prada has acknowledged that the collection was ‘inspired by Indian artisans,’ the acknowledgment came only after a wave of social media backlash.
However, petitioners argue that the brand’s response falls short. They claim no formal apology has been issued, nor has any compensation been offered to the Kolhapuri artisans or recognition extended to relevant government entities like the GI Registry.
‘This acknowledgement was given to a private entity and not to the applicant, makers of Kolhapuri Chappal, GI Registry, Government, or the public at large,’ the PIL adds, calling Prada’s response a ‘superficial attempt to deflect criticism.’
Call for Government Intervention
The petition also urges the Indian government to step in and protect traditional crafts like the Kolhapuri chappal from being exploited by global brands. It asks the court to direct relevant authorities to enforce stricter safeguards for GI-tagged products—items that are intrinsically tied to the identity, economy, and legacy of their place of origin.
‘The Kolhapuri chappal is not just footwear—it’s a cultural emblem,’ the petition asserts. ‘There are strong public sentiments attached to it, and its uncredited commercial use undermines both the artisans’ livelihood and our national heritage.’