Navratri is just around the corner, and much of India is preparing to observe nine days of fasting and devotion to the nine avatars of Ma Durga.
During this time, thalis across the country are dominated by sabudana khichdi, fruit platters, kuttu puris and other sattvik meals.
Meat, onion and garlic quietly disappear from plates. But travel east to Bengal, and the narrative takes a sharp turn. Here, it marks the beginning of the state’s grandest celebration – Durga Puja. The air fills with the aroma of kosha mangsho, ilish machh and chicken curry simmering in Bengali kitchens. For many outside Bengal, this contrast can be surprising. How can a festival, rooted in devotion, be celebrated with non-vegetarian food?
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For Bengalis, eating fish and meat during Navratri is not an act of rebellion. It is a tradition, culture and a celebration of Ma Durga’s homecoming. It is devotion expressed through feasting, not fasting. More About Celebration than fasting in Bengal, Navratri is not just about fasting and restraint. It is the lead-up to Durga Puja, the region’s most important cultural and religious festival. Unlike the North Indian interpretation, which emphasises abstinence, in Bengal, Navratri is viewed as a time of joy, indulgence and community bonding.
The Historical and Cultural Context: Food habits in Bengal have been shaped by geography and history. Surrounded by rivers and fertile land, fish has been central to Bengali cuisine for centuries. Historian Nrisingha Bhaduri explains that in Bengal, consuming fish and meat during religious festivals has long been considered a form of divine blessing. The idea that food can be both sacred and celebratory sits comfortably in Bengali tradition.
In fact, many temple rituals in Bengal actively involve non-vegetarian offerings. The worship of Kali, another fierce form of the goddess, often includes goat sacrifices, with the meat later cooked and shared as prasad. Durga herself is worshipped with bhog that features khichuri, fried vegetables, and in some communities even fish and meat.
This is in contrast with parts of India influenced by Vaishnavite traditions, where vegetarianism is seen as the purest form of devotion. Bengal’s Shakta traditions, centred around goddess worship, consider both vegetarian and non-vegetarian offerings as equally sacred.
A Practical Perspective: Bengal’s Climate And Food Habits. Beyond religion, there is a practical reason too. Bengal’s humid climate and river-rich geography made fish the staple protein of the region. Generations grew up considering fish not just food but an essential daily nutrient.
To suddenly give it up for nine days of Navratri never became a cultural norm in Bengal the way it did in other states. Unlike arid regions, where vegetarian diets were more sustainable, Bengal’s bounty of rivers made non-vegetarian food both accessible and affordable.