Nirmal Purja was far more than a record-breaking climber. Born in Nepal, he first built a career in the military. He served as a British Gurkha before becoming the first Nepali to join the British Special Boat Service, an elite Royal Navy unit.
His military career lasted about 16 years, and his experience in extreme cold-weather conditions later became an important part of his mountaineering career. He was appointed an MBE in 2018 for his military service and achievements.
Purja’s move into mountaineering came relatively late compared with many famous climbers.
In his last emotional post on X, he emphasised that every mountain is ‘climbable’. Read the post below:
THE MISSION SHIFTS. THE COMPASS HOLDS.
This was never the plan. Initially, the plan was to climb just G2. But just before setting off for Pakistan, I ran the numbers on my 8000m summits. That’s when it hit me: if I tick off Broad Peak whilst I’m here , only one remains “Cho Oyu.” Then I become the FIRST person in history to climb all 14 eight-thousanders twice. Without oxygen.
This wasn’t planned. The Hattrick project was the focus because it carried a bigger mission. But opportunities don’t scream: they whisper to those already working in silence.
Here’s the secret I’ve carried through every expedition: I never competed with anyone else. My only battle was against the man I was yesterday. Every single day, pushing my own limits. Because the moment you look sideways: at what others are doing, saying, achieving: you drift off your compass. Your heading is YOURS. Guard it fiercely.
They criticized me when I climbed the 14 without O’s during Project Possible. If you haven’t seen what that took, watch 14 Peaks on Netflix. That film is the unfiltered truth. I was there doing multiple rescues of climbers left behind by other expeditions, raising the funds myself, leading from the front, fixing our own lines, dealing with the Shishapangma permit with China, being at hospitals for my mum’s operation and so much more. And now? Now I’m heading for the double without oxygen: triple in total. The noise hasn’t stopped. I just stopped listening.
To those who still doubt: I already climbed all 5 of Pakistan’s 8000ers in just 26 days. Leading. Guiding. Without oxygen. Breaking the records of those who broke mine with oxygen. The receipts are there.
Broad Peak, I ask for nothing but safe passage up and back down. I take zero mountains for granted. Not one. The moment my foot leaves basecamp, it’s 100%. Always has been. Always will be.
This one is dedicated to everyone who carried me here. Supporters. Critics. All of you. Without both sides, there is no fire. So thank you genuinely.
My purpose has never been about me. It’s about what I represent. It’s about showing YOU that your own mountains, whatever they are, are climbable.”
THE MISSION SHIFTS. THE COMPASS HOLDS.
This was never the plan. Initially, the plan was to climb just G2. But just before setting off for Pakistan, I ran the numbers on my 8000m summits. That’s when it hit me: if I tick off Broad Peak whilst I’m here , only one remains “Cho… pic.twitter.com/rovJzFcazP
— Nirmal Purja MBE (@nimsdai) July 27, 2026
A 2012 trek to Everest Base Camp changed his life. What began as a trek eventually pushed him towards high-altitude climbing and, within a few years, towards one of the biggest records in mountaineering.